Destination Report: Madrid

Last autumn, I returned to the vibrant city I once called my second home: Madrid, the heart of Spain.

For context, I undertook a year abroad (Erasmus) living and studying in the Spanish capital back in 2014/15, and I had not been back since an informal 2018 reunion. The tenth anniversary of the start of my Erasmus experience seemed a good time to return - although direct flights from Luxembourg mean there was little excuse not to have gone back sooner!

I flew into the once very familiar Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas Airport and took a taxi (included in accommodation booking, otherwise I would have taken the Metro) to a decent hotel located centrally, just off Gran Vía, the main shopping street.

As expected, my Spanish was a bit rusty but came back quite quickly - and whilst I heard more English spoken than a decade ago, some Spanish still goes a long way. For the most part, Madrid was just as I remembered it, although there appeared to be many more tourists (myself included) this time round. That may well have been due to the timing of the visit - around the All Saints’ Day holiday. There was a lot of queuing during this visit, from waiting to get inside museums and the Royal Palace to trying to get a glimpse of the beautiful Altar de Muertos at Casa de México on Day of the Dead. It was enjoyable overall, but I would recommend avoiding travelling during school holidays, when possible, to beat the crowds.

I was also pleased to see how diverse the gastronomic offer had become. Whilst ten years ago there were already some vegan restaurants in more “hip” neighbourhoods such as Malasaña and Lavapiés, this offer has grown significantly, and there were many options for people with other dietary restrictions/preferences (gluten free, etc.). For those looking to try more typical/traditional Madrileño and other Spanish dishes, there is no shortage of places serving Spanish (potato) omelette, squid sandwich, cod bites/croquettes, cocido (stew), tapas and paella - although best to try the latter in Valencia... Some popular covered markets for foodies include the Mercado San Miguel, not far from Plaza Mayor, and the Mercado San Antón in Chueca - the LGBTQI+ epicentre of Madrid. For churros, San Ginés is certainly the most famous spot, but there are other great places too - including those with gluten-free options. One restaurant stood out for me this time: the unapologetically eccentric and very pink, flowery (kind of kitsch but fabulous) Rosi La Loca, with its Alice in Wonderland- (and other-) themed mugs and modern twist on typical Spanish dishes. The group also runs the Bestial restaurant in Madrid, which has an underwater theme - might be worth checking out next time! Another culinary (and social) highlight was reminiscing with an old friend over a traditional Spanish dinner at her place.

For culture lovers, Madrid is a dream. Its many museums include the “Big Three” in the “Golden Triangle of Art”, namely the Prado (my personal favourite), the Reina Sofia (home of Picasso’s “Guernica”) and the Thyssen-Bornemisza. This time, I also checked out the Naval Museum and the Museum of the Americas (outside the city centre so not as busy, but interesting all the same). And no visit to Madrid is complete, in my opinion, without a stop at the Templo de Debod. This Egyptian temple was gifted to Madrid in the second half of the 20th century. You can book a visit inside online in advance or simply show up and marvel at its beauty, particularly at sunset. I also mentioned the Royal Palace earlier, and would recommend booking tickets in advance to avoid the crowds, although this will depend on the day.

For a taste of nature, the Retiro park is a real gem. Fair warning, it is big enough to get lost in (at least I have managed to do so in the past), but that is not a problem if you have the time to explore. The Glass Palace was closed at the time of my recent visit, but there is always something to see and do in the park, from cycling to renting a boat on the lake. The nearby royal botanical garden is also worth a visit - as is the more compact tropical garden inside the Atocha train station.

Another great thing about Madrid is its location (as the geographical centre of Spain) and accessibility to other Spanish towns and cities - as well as to Central and South America (by plane). Popular day trips include visits to Toledo and Segovia, among others, but there are plenty of buses and trains going further afield as well. Part of the plan this time was to revisit Valencia, which is only a couple of hours away by train. However, the horrific floods which hit the region that same week meant trains were (understandably) cancelled. Rediscovering Toledo, the charming old medieval capital of Spain, was a great - and more accessible - alternative on this occasion.

Overall, it was a wonderfully nostalgic trip, and I would wholeheartedly recommend Madrid to anyone looking for an interesting city break offering a wealth of culture and good food.