Sometimes we seek a break from the Luxembourg bubble, and the hustle and bustle of a larger city beckons. For art lovers, history geeks, architecture enthusiasts and party animals in particular, I urge you to visit Madrid. It may not appear high on many peoples’ “to-visit” lists, but having been there on recent a trip in collaboration with Luxair and the Spanish Institute of Tourism, I will do my best to assure you why it should.
Getting there and getting around
The summer season has started and as of April 2015, Luxair offers return flights to Madrid every day of the week except Saturday, taking you directly to the newly designed Terminal 4 (opened in 2006) of the Adolfo Suarez Madrid-Barajas airport. Designed by Antonio Lamela and Richard Rogers (Millenium Dome, Pompidou Centre Paris), the idea behind the award-winning building is to use its sweeping visual effects to create a stress-free feeling among passengers prior to their journey – it works! Despite being one of the world’s largest airport terminals, it is flooded with natural light, spacious, very easy to navigate and just 30 minutes’ drive from the city centre.
Madrid is an enormous city and while it boasts one of the finest public transport services in the world, many parts are easy to explore on foot. For longer distances I recommend using ‘BiciMAD’, Madrid’s brand new bicycle sharing system. It is the equivalent to Luxembourg’s Vel’oh with one important difference: all of the bicycles are electric, providing a wonderful way to explore the capital in the open air without having to exhaust yourself. Taxis are also very reasonably priced with drivers often offering friendly advice on where to go and the quickest route.
Culture, business, entertainment, leisure, gastronomy… Madrid has it all.
Situated in the geographical centre of the peninsula, a noteworthy characteristic of Madrid is its vast range of temperatures, which can fall as low as 0°C in winter and rise to as high as 40°C in summer. A city of 6 million inhabitants, many of whom live in the metropolitan area, it has been the capital of Spain since 1561 and is the official Spanish residence of the King and Queen.
The north encompasses the important business district where the headquarters of many major international companies are based. Further south, along with huge boulevards, there are many smaller, pedestrianised streets to get lost in, invariably leading to beautiful plazas, fountains, squares, monuments and sculptures. The Gran Plaza is a must-see and is easy to stumble upon following a visit to Royal Palace, a great Arab fortress surrounded by the magnificent Royal Gardens.
There are countless bars and restaurants to choose from in Madrid, mostly with a very modern and cosmopolitan feel to match that of the city. The city is also home to Restaurante Botin, the world’s oldest restaurant, founded in 1795, where suckling pig and roasted lamb are among the traditional specialties.
Tucked away in the small streets of Chueca is an alternative gay area where bars aren’t concerned with closing times: characteristic of Madrid’s thriving nightlife. To kick off your evening I suggest sipping a refreshing cocktail in the laid back atmosphere of Chicote, the city’s oldest cocktail bar dating back to 1913. For a bohemian, arty vibe wander around Lavapiés and Salesas, Madrid’s equivalent to Soho.
Flamenco dancing is as popular as bull fighting in Spain although, needless to say, much less controversial. Head to Cardamomo Tablao Flamenco Madrid on 14 Calle Echegaray, which is widely recognised as one of the best Flamenco bars for cocktails, food and dancing until 3am; a perfect start to a Spanish night out (a siesta is advised beforehand if you’re going out on the Spanish clock). For the party animals out there, the choice of late night bars and clubs is endless, from Fabrik and Joy Esclava to Barco and Tupperware in the popular Malasaña district.
Whatever your position on this, Spain’s traditional spectacle (some call it a bloody sport, others call it an art), it is worth visiting Plaza de Toros bullfighting arena, an impressive construction that can accommodate 24,000 spectators. Unless you plan to visit while a football game is on, you can likewise enjoy a tour of the famous and prestigious Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, owned by Real Madrid F.C.
Many tourists come to Madrid for the shopping experience. Upscale neighbourhood Salamanca is the only area where you can find international designer boutiques. If you’re all about flea markets then do not miss El Rastro held every Sunday and public holiday of the year. Along with the usual designer brands, the city offers an array of alternative, bohemian and independent shops to discover.
Centrally located near Plaza Mayor, the popular Mercado San Miguel is a wonderful example of a modern market. A gourmet tapas market, it is a feast for all the senses, with over 30 vendors selling all kinds of fresh foods including tapas, ham, olives, oysters, Champagne, cocktails, wine, beer and much more.
Where to stay?
The vast city offers many places to stay to suit a variety of budgets and preferences. Ideally situated in one of the city’s most popular areas, I can recommend staying at the Hotel Gran Via Las Letras, which was established in 1910.
Las Letras is exemplary of the eclectic mix of styles that can be seen all over the city, not least the integration of avant-garde design with original brickwork, high ceilings and old staircase and lift. The hotel has a roof terrace, lounge bar and restaurant and its cool, colourful interior succeeds in leaving the noisy bustle of the Gran Via far behind. Selected rooms have a private terrace and Jacuzzi and all of the 109 rooms have a special touch as each room features quotes from famous and popular writers and poets. Very centrally located, it is easy to access the best of what Madrid has to offer.
Lobby Market, just across the street from Las Letras hotel, is a perfect choice for an introduction to Madrid’s delicious gastronomy, whether it is for breakfast, lunch or dinner. A relatively new independent restaurant (opened in 2013), it has a laid-back vibe along with a spacious interior yet intimate atmosphere. The food is upmarket, high quality and the extensive menu features many original dishes, for example aubergine fritters drizzled with honey and served with aioli and grilled calamari stuffed with black pudding in a saffron sauce. Lobby Market offers modern Castilian cuisine with a twist as many dishes have Indian and Peruvian influences.
In Part 2 of the Madrid Destination Report I will take a closer look at the cultural offerings of the capital, delve into traditional Madrilenian cuisine and invite you to visit the nearby ancient town of Alcala de Hernares, birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes.
Useful websites: www.luxair.lu, www.spain.info, www.esmadrid.com, www.turismomadrid.es, www.turismoalcala.es
Lobby Market: www.lobbymarket.es
Restaurante Botin: www.botin.es
Chicote: http://grupomercadodelareina.com
Cardamomo Tablao Flamenco: http://cardamomo.es
Mercado San Miguel: www.mercadodesanmiguel.es/en/
