It's been 25 years since we stayed in the Black Forest; with Luxembourg so ideally positioned that every direction leads to new explorations, we are really spoilt for choice living in the Grand Duchy, and that includes within its borders too.
Anyway, 25 years ago we took a memorable family trip by car which took in the Black Forest, Liechtenstein, Vienna, Venice, San Marino, the Italian Riviera and Monaco; we had actually originally intended to drive to what was then Yugoslavia and stay on its Adriatic coast, but we had to change our plans due to the political situation there. Looking back, how did we manage before the Internet and Sat-navs? By ordering through printed catalogues and reading fold-out maps... For the trip we had set ourselves some ground-rules, including never drive after 18:00 and always include something for the children each day. It worked a treat and we enjoyed a wonderful 2-week driving holiday of which we have very fond memories.
So a return after 25 years to Schluchsee in the Black Forest - we tried in vain to look for the same hotel we stayed in before where the staff were so welcoming and accommodating - we remember one of the girls who had just started to walk went exploring during breakfast, into the kitchen, followed by her 4 year-old sister. The staff were more than tolerant and played them so we could relax and enjoy our breakfast before venturing out for the day to search the source of the Rhine river. Alas, we could not remember the name of the hotel but we found another one which seemed to match our wishes - rustic and traditional. We decided not to book and arrived on spec, shortly before 20:00. Turning into the road of the hotel we had found online, we both exclaimed in unison "That's the hotel where we stayed 25 years ago!".
Further along the same street, the Hoch Schwarzwald-Hof hotel could not have been more cheerful and welcoming. They apologised profusely that their kitchen was just closing (we learnt later many establishments there are finding it difficult to recruit staff) but pointed out two within 200m that would still be serving; this is where we headed after a rapid check-in formality. Oh, and the price was less than had been advertised online on Booking.com and Hotels.com...
The Hoch Schwarzwald-Hof hotel was everything, and more, we had wished for; rustic charm and delightful hosts - service with a smile. while the bedroom was a bit basic on furnishings it had everything we needed - large comfortable beds, a wardrobe to hang and sort our clothes, a wide and deep sofa for relaxing, a mid-sized desk and sturdy chair, tv (DE), bed-side tables and an en-suite bathroom that looked if it had been decorated in the 70s. But everything worked, even the wi-fi which we learnt had been installed recently for the benefit of the guests staying in the 21 rooms. And the room also had a spacious balcony with a decent view over the town and of the lake. But the real charm lay downstairs in the reception area and restaurant / breakfast room, in its rustic pine decor and furnishings. Breakfasts were delicious, by self-service with a wide range from cereal and yoghurt and fresh fruit to boiled eggs, cold meats and fresh bread, with a selection of teas and flasks of coffee. Dinner that (early) evening was traditional Black Forest fare - we opted for the garlic soup (to keep the vampires away...) and schnitzels with creamy mushroom sauce, garnished with salad and potatoes. When we came to check out, the total cost was most agreeable...
So where exactly is Schluchsee, and what is it? Schluchsee is 375km from Luxembourg and the easiest way to get there is to drive via Metz and Strasbourg to Freibourg. Soon afterwards the road zig-zags as one ascends to the Black Forest which is set around 1km above sea level. The lake is 7.5km long with an 18km walking trail around it. The water is dammed so the level is consistent throughout the year; before it flows into the Rhine it passes through three hydroelectric power stations - it reminded me of Tasmania when I was there in late 2014. When we were there, night-time temperatures were just above zero, with daytime temperatures touching 20C. There was still quite a bit of snow around, and the main ski resort of Feldberg is just 15km away.
Preparations were underway for the summer season, with pontoons being erected and positioned at various placed around the lake for the comfort of those who enjoy water sports, with diving, rowing, kayaking, sailing and fishing (mainly for pike) all being supported. The tourist / sightseeing boat was in dry dock for the winter period but is expected to be afloat again shortly. The lake is also home to a number of birdlife, from mallard ducks to geese, as well as butterflies and resident beavers, the latter according to the placards around the lake. Our first walk, counter-clockwise from Schluchsee, saw us pass a lookout post and a small beach, before the path went through the primarily coniferous forest, with the deciduous trees and shrubs sprouting buds in anticipation of the spring and summer ahead.
Our subsequent clockwise walk around the lake, starting from the Schluchsee train station, brought us to another train station just 2km along the shore, nearby a hotel and significant youth hostel, and on to the dam. Both train stations operated as P&Rs, with various groups getting kitted up to start walking or cycling along the paths.
Accommodation-wise, there are dozens of hotels in and outside the town; there is also a campsite and many camper vans were parked overnight. As well as the walk around the lake, there is another hunting trail (Jagersteig) which ventures up the hills from the town. We managed to see some deer while we were there. In Schluchsee there is a swimming pool and also an outdoor Aqua Park close to the lake, comprising many thrills including a large concentric slide. Half-way to Feldberg, on the way to Titisee, we also spotted a Schnaps Museum.
The Black Forest (Schwarzwald, Foret Noire) is not all about their world-famous gateau and cuckoo clocks - these can both be seen in abundance - but as a get-away destination for all ages, with options for relaxation and activities aplenty. The cafés often have great views of the lake, but they all have wholesome goulash and other soups, and sumptuous Black Forest gateaux and other cakes. And most have wifi connections too.
For all the local attractions, tourists can ask at their hotel for a Hochschwarzwald Card which offers free entry as well as free travel on the local train service. For further details on the Hoch Schwarzwald-Hof hotel, see www.hochschwarzwaldhof.de or email info@hochschwarzwaldhof.de or tel: +49-7656-9889858. For tourism information, see www.hochschwarzwald.de.
Photos by Geoff Thompson
